How to Set Up a Nest Box for Chickens: Size, Bedding, and Position

There's nothing worse than heading down to the coop, dreaming of scrambled eggs, and finding every one of them cracked.

In our experience, cracked eggs usually start with the nest box, not the hen. And they can lead to a bigger problem. Once hens get a taste, egg eating can follow, and that's a habit that's hard to break.

So, Trevor's here to take you through our recommended nest box setup: the size of the box, what's in it, and where it sits.

The quick checklist

• Size: 350mm square for average hens, 400mm for heavy breeds
• Front lip: 100mm minimum, 150mm preferred
• Base: 50mm of washed river sand
• Bedding: wheaten or oaten hay on top of the sand
• Position: dark, quiet corner, away from the door and not under perches
  
• Height: raised off the ground

Nest box size for chickens

A nest box needs to be big enough for the hen to get in and turn around, and no bigger. Too much space and she won't feel secure, and the nest won't hold together.

The front lip matters just as much. When a hen settles in and shapes her nest, the bedding has to stay inside the box. We recommend a minimum lip of 100mm, but we prefer 150mm. Without a lip that's high enough, the nest falls out the front and the box doesn't do its job. Cosy is key!

What to build it from

We build our nest boxes from marine grade ply. It has a high resistance against weather and moisture, far better than basic structural ply, and it's durable, light, easy to work with and won't overheat. If you like to recycle, plastic drums also work well. We avoid materials like tin and Colorbond because they get very hot in the warmer months.

What to put in a chicken nest box

Start with a 50mm base of washed river sand. It gives the egg a soft landing. If you only use hay, the hen often pushes the bedding out to the edges as she nestles down, which leaves nothing at the base. When she lays, the egg drops onto bare ply and can crack. Sand also stops her from digging right down to the floor of the box.

On top of the sand, add a generous layer of straw or hay. We recommend wheaten or oaten hay. We'd suggest avoiding lucerne, which is coarse and hard for a hen to shape into a nest, and sawdust, because the flakes are too small to hold a nest together. Don't worry if you add too much. The hen will pull out what she doesn't need.

We replace the hay every couple of months and the sand twice a year.

Where to put a nest box

Hens like privacy so make sure your nest boxes are in a dark, quiet part of the coop, away from exposed elements or beaming sunlight. We like to tuck the box into a corner at the far end of the coop, away from the main door, and face it toward the wall so it stays dark and quiet. Keep it away from perches. Droppings overnight will land on the nest and make everything filthy.

Raise the box off the ground to keep out moisture. Damp bedding grows mould, and mould is bad news for your hens' health. If your boxes aren't fixed to the coop wall, raise them on bricks or pallets.

How many nest boxes do you need?

We recommend one box for every two hens. Sometimes you can stretch to one box for every three hens but we try to avoid having too many hens compete for space if we can help it. If you have more than one broody hen, give each her own box.

For clear breeding lines, each broody hen should have her own pen as well.

Keeping mites out of the nest

Check your nest boxes for mites regularly, especially in the warmer months. We use and recommend Exzolt for mite treatment.

Why won't my hens use the nest box?

Most of the time, it's something about the box itself. Hens want a nest that feels private, comfortable, and secure, so check these first:

• Size. Too big and she won't feel secure. Too small and she can't turn around. Go for 350mm for average hens or 400mm for heavy breeds.
• Light and noise. Move the box to a dark, quiet corner, away from the main door and not under the perches.
• Bedding. A box with no soft base or too little hay won't tempt her. Add the sand layer, a generous serve of wheaten or oaten hay, and shape a dome in the middle.
• Mites. A hen that won't go near a box may have found mites in it. Check the bedding and the corners.
• Age. Pullets won't use a box until they're close to point of lay. If yours are still young, they may just not be ready.

Why are my hens laying on the floor?

If your hens have picked a spot on the floor, the nest box isn't winning against it. Work through why:

• The box is too bright or exposed. Hens go looking for somewhere dark and private. If the floor corner feels safer than the box, that's where the eggs will end up.
• The bedding isn't right. Hard bottoms, too little hay, or the wrong bedding all push hens elsewhere.
• Not enough boxes. We recommend one box for every two hens. If hens are queuing, some will lay wherever they can.
• A habit has formed. Once a hen lays in a spot, she tends to return to it. To break the habit, collect the floor eggs promptly, block off or clean out the spot she's been using, and make the box the most appealing option in the coop. We sometimes use plastic nesting eggs to encourage laying in the right spot.

Want the nest box without the build?

We build nest boxes to the sizes above, so you can skip the cutting and get straight to the setup.

Questions about your own setup? Leave a comment and we'll help.

Photos courtesy of Hill to Air: https://hilltoair.com.au/